Noseblock, keelson and bulkheads level

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Noseblock, keelson and bulkheads level

Postby Dmitriy on Wed May 18, 2022 9:32 am

Hello builders!
I want to tell you about another problem that I encountered.
When I made the keel, I made a noseblock with a continuation of the curved line of the keelsides, as it says in the manual. I didn't think about what effect it would have.
Now I am preparing the floors and bulkheads and decided to try them on the keel.
I found that Floor 3 and Bulkhead 2 are very high relative to Floor 4. This means that I will not be able to lay a flat floorboards and in general everything will be distorted further.
I realized that I lifted the keelson too far up in the front. Unfortunately it's already glued on.
I'm planning to cut off the part of keelson at the front of the CB trunk, sand the noseblock and glue that part again. I want to attach a sheet of plywood to the side, on which to mark the level of the bulkhead, floors, and the floorboards, so that I can accurately set the level of the keelson.
So, be careful when trace curve to noseblock :D
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Re: Noseblock, keelson and bulkheads level

Postby doug@dougbraun.com on Wed May 18, 2022 9:50 am

I bet most people end up doing this - making the front end of the keelson curve up to far.
Mine stuck up about 1/4 inch above the bottom panels, so I added a corresponding amount of epoxy
to the bottom surface, to fill in the depressed area.

Ideally the plans would have a template to define the correct contour.

Doug
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Re: Noseblock, keelson and bulkheads level

Postby Creekboater on Wed May 18, 2022 5:28 pm

Hmmmm...you know, I've wondered about this when reading plans. As someone about to start his build, I'm eager to hear if others have found a 'trick' to get the appropriate curve.

But Doug...a question about your fix. Did you also notch your floor and bulkhead so they would sit flush on the bottom panels where the keelson is raised?
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Re: Noseblock, keelson and bulkheads level

Postby doug@dougbraun.com on Wed May 18, 2022 8:07 pm

Creekboater wrote:But Doug...a question about your fix. Did you also notch your floor and bulkhead so they would sit flush on the bottom panels where the keelson is raised?


Yes, I definitely had to. Here are a couple of photos of that general area. I had to add a lot of epoxy to create a smoothly contoured surface that I could put glass over.
Probably I should also have enlarged the limber holes a bit.

PXL_20201226_034334126.jpg
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PXL_20210117_153844383.jpg
PXL_20210117_153844383.jpg (185.3 KiB) Viewed 166 times



Where is what the underside looked like, much later. You can see the epoxy that fills in the depressed area.
When you look at the finished boat, there is of course no trace of this.

PXL_20210716_154004664.jpg
PXL_20210716_154004664.jpg (123.28 KiB) Viewed 167 times
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Re: Noseblock, keelson and bulkheads level

Postby Hooky on Thu May 19, 2022 7:48 am

G'Day fellow builders, I had to replace the forward section of my Keelson not due to the angle but it broke off while moving the dam thing around my workshop prior to placing it in the cradle. It's bloody heavy.
I used a vibrating renovator tool to cut out a section of the keelson above the nose block far enough back to glue on a new piece. Dimitri this would work for you to remove a section of the nose block beneath the keelson while it is still attached. Once you have the correct curve on the nose block you can re-attach the keelson.
I hope this helps
Cheers Terry
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Re: Noseblock, keelson and bulkheads level

Postby Dmitriy on Thu May 19, 2022 8:36 am

Thanks for the tip, Terry!
I will use a heat gun and a flathead screwdriver. The heat gun softens the epoxy, then you can lift the keelson with a screwdriver by inserting it into the gap between the noseblock and keelson. I did this when I removed the noseblock from the first version of the keel (which was crooked).

To Creekboater:
We know the height of Floor 3 and Bulkhead 2 (in BH2 we need height from bottom to floorboard line). We know it from plans.
Also, we know the height of Floor 4, 5 and 6, that will stay on keelson (add 9 mm up to keel sides) and distance between Floors. So, we can make a line using Floor 4, 5, 6 top points. It must be straight line.
Then trace this line forward. Next, measure and mark on this line distance from Floor 4 to 3 and from Floor 4 to Bh 2. Draw down height of the Floor 3 and floorboard level of Bh2 in places where they will stay. You will have two reference points of the forward side of the keelson. Count down 9 mm and you will have points to line for the noseblock.
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