PocketShip Build in Europe

Welcome to PocketShip.net! This bulletin board is for builders of the Chesapeake Light Craft-John C. Harris "PocketShip" design, a 15-foot micro cruiser sailboat built from a kit or plans.

For more information on PocketShip, click here: http://www.clcboats.com/pocketship

This site gathers PocketShip builders in one place. Here you can share photos, tips, questions, and---eventually---your sailing adventures in PocketShip! CLC will also post design updates and tips here as they come up.

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Re: PocketShip Build in Europe

Postby slash2 on Mon May 01, 2023 8:33 am

Looking good and great progress!

I also added fiberglass tape on the inside joint of the cabin wall. That joint will see a lot of stress.
Steve Sawtelle
slash2
 
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Re: PocketShip Build in Europe

Postby dbeck on Mon May 15, 2023 3:43 pm

Here is an update on our build: We made two things differently than described in the manual.

1. During a trial fit of the sheer clamps we discovered that really a lot of force was needed and we were afraid of braking them. The sheer clamps provided with our kit are made of douglas fir. Although this type of wood is not optimal for steam bending, we were happy with the result.
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The force required after steam bending was much less. This is not described in the manual, but it helped and was a good training for the upcoming mounting of the rubrails.

2. After struggling with the dorade box fit, we arranged the panels of the dorade box slightly differently.
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Shown is the modified arrangement of the tack-welded dorade boxes as well as an exhibition of almost all of our clamps while the epoxy at the sheer clamps cures. The vertical lines at the outside of the carlins mark the position of the dorade boxes as described in the manual. We moved them about 3.5 cm more to the outside.

Dietrich
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Re: PocketShip Build in Europe

Postby dbeck on Wed May 24, 2023 3:26 pm

As I wrote here we decided for mushroom instead of dorade vents.

But how to do this? On the hand hand we want the drainage of the foredeck sealed from inside the cabin, but on the other hand we'd like to keep the 'dorade' boxes to accommodate the mushroom vents, to stiffen bulkhead 2, as a small storage space and for the look of the boat of course :-)

Our solution is to guide the water through the 'dorade' boxes via short tubes. We looked at some options but finally decided for PVC tubes that are intended for plumbing installations and to glue them with epoxy. We know its not optimal, but we found some guidance here. Moreover the famous 3M 5200 sealant does not seem to be available to the end-user in Germany (only from obscure sources). Our tubes have 16(13)mm outside(inside) diameter.

To get well aligned hole at both sides of the dorade boxes, I used a cheap 16mm HSS spiral drill of 40cm length (intended for formwork and installation, its basically a 10cm long drill on a long steel rod). Starting with 2mm diameter pilot hole(s), this finally worked out pretty well. Uff!

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Drilling through the starboard dorade box. The two chunks of wood prevented the drill from slipping off the fillet when drilling through the 2nd wall.

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A look through the boat. The holes in the side panels received a countersink shape at the outside. The idea is to have some sort of thickened epoxy ring around the outside end of the tube. If I was more courageous, I could have drilled the holes even 1 mm more towards the fillet between deck and BH2.

tube-inside.JPG
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The portside dorade box with tube installed.

Of course, all surfaces of the tube outside and holes inside were sanded, treated with alcohol and then received unthickened epoxy and finally thickened epoxy.

Will it finally work out? We will know next year maybe. At least the holes are above the waterline, all wood is sealed with epoxy and in the worst case we'll need to figure out plan B.
dbeck
 
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Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2021 2:23 pm

Re: PocketShip Build in Europe

Postby dbeck on Sat Jun 10, 2023 1:27 am

The manual foresees two holes in BH2 into the dorade boxes. I drilled three holes. Why?

As I wanted to do everything carefully, I started by drilling a pilot hole on the starboard side at the best position. Then, I became concerned and I cut out some patterns for the inspection ports, placed them until I was happy and drilled a new set of pilot holes.
bh2_planned.JPG
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Then I used a big hole circle cutter and drilled to big holes. I really took care to center the drill onto the pilot holes. First I was happy with the result. I had two big holes with clean edges. I reached into them with both hands. But wait! They feel differently and somehow symmetry was broken. What happened? I picked the wrong of the two pilot holes on the starboard side although the correct one was properly marked :-( I felt there was no other option than gluing the cut-out disk back in with thickened epoxy.
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Next day, I drilled a third hole into BH2.
bh2_corrected.JPG
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What a mishap. But finally we have two proper holes in BH2.
dbeck
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2021 2:23 pm

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