PocketShip.net

Now that the boat is flipped I get my first real look at the bottom. It seems that the transition (or lack thereof) of the keel nose from the leading edge to the keel bottom should be rounded off substantially. I would think that the current design would want to make the nose dig in rather than ride over things. I see several posts about damage to the nose and wonder if having a gentle curve there would help. It should also make rolling the keel up on a trailer easier. Maybe there’s a good reason for the shape, and if there is, I’d like to be enlightened before I make the mod.

Steve,

You can make a more bump resistant shape out of styrofoam, epoxy it in place and cover it with four layers of fiberglass cloth. That should be resistant to rocks, or whatever. You can always use wood in place of styrofoam.

Here’s what I ended up doing:



I tapered the noseblock then steam bent a piece of 5/8” white oak to protect the soft wood. It ends at the front of the centerboard trunk. Basically a wormshoe. Another straight piece goes from the back of the centerboard trunk to the stern. I’ll probably Fiberglass the keel without these pieces and then screw and seal the oak on top. I can then replace them if needed.
The added benefit is that it raises the centerboard area off the trailer carpet to promote air drying.

Here's what I did (years ago). Like Slash, I added a keel shoe fore and aft of the CB slot. I made it out of Iroko and glassed it in as an "add on" after first glassing the keel without the shoe. To fortify the nose block area I added much extra glass, building up the front edge as well as the area where it meets the hull. There's at least 1/2" of glass on the front. I figure that the added weight is right where it's needed.

Bob

I wanted to use Ipe but it refused to steam bend. The white oak should do ok. Your Iroko should be very long lasting.