measurements question

[clifford.cull]

Question:

So.....the marks with the x in between them are the right ones. The 2 dashes closest are the ones according to the plans. They are off by about an inch. this is for the starboard side. The port side as you can see in the lowest picture is off about 1/2 inch. I am making sure the boards run parallel to each other.
The distance along the pine strip from the corner across the transom on one side is 21 inches and the other 20 inches. I am hoping this will not cause problems later. I did earlier dry fit the seats and they fit pretty well.

You can check this on my blog with the pictures......

cliffordscull.blogspot.com

So the question is: I recall the side panels when they pulled in to met the transom when i glued it up did not meet perfectly the same on each side. The transom sticks up a little higher above the side panel on one side then on the other. Maybe this is causing the problem discussed above. Is this difference of 21 and 20 inches discussed above a problem?

[decurtis]

Clifford,
I received your email on this question and was going to suggest posting here where all the Pocketship expertise is.
I had to dig back far in my memory banks since unbelievably my Pocketship first hit the water more than 2 years ago.
I didn't have this exact problem but did have some fitting problems with the cleats because of putting in extra cleats for installing a floor for the lazarettes instead of storing stuff on top of the styrofoam flotation. My suggestion would be to dry fit the cockpit footwell and get a better idea of where the cleats should be positioned to keep the footwell centred.

Good luck on your build,
BTW, I prefer a nice Australian Shiraz,

Dave Curtis

[JonLee]

I agree with Dave...trial fitting the cockpit sides and measuring out from there should help alot. Those carlins should run parallel to the footwell sides, so they're a good guide. You may also want to check that your hull is level and not twisted. I'd have to be really twisted to throw off the measurements back there much, but it is worth checking. I originally did a ton of diagonal measuring to elimiate any twist, but for quick twist checks now, I'll run a level athwartships at Bulkhead #2 and at the transom, and then shim the cradle until both are level. I spot check for twist pretty often since I put my cradle on wheels, so I could occasionally reposition the boat if I needed to make extra room in the shop. I guess my shop floor isn't very even, because every time I move the boat, it throws the level/twist off a little.

If the cockpit decks fit ok, then the only other potential problem could come when you install the lazerette hatches. It seems like there isn't much clearance between the hatches and those carlins, so if they are too far out of the "right" place, you could run into some problems there.

Dave, can it really be that long since you launched???? When I first read your blog (which lead me to really become excited about building this boat), I think you had only been on the water once! Yikes...come to think of it, I've been building for just over a year now. TIme flies!

[kilderkin]

I have just done that part of "Kilderkin II". What I chose was to make this cleat the hatch support (hinge side), with the footwell as the other support, and bulkhead 8 for the forward support. So, all this was dry fitted to define the position for this cleat. I also put in a thin plywood vertical to keep the foam in place, so this storage area is clear, and the flotation is sealed. I have photos (but am blogless) - if you e-mail a request to me at "[email protected]", I'll be happy to send them to you.

ps - my transom is also about 1/2" different height where it meets the hull sides, and I am building from a kit, so those parts were pre-cut. Looks like a power-planer will fix it when the skirt goes on - hope so! - ssw