PocketShip.net

LazyJacks are helpful when sailing solo. I fabricated a set for Tattoo. The upper part(s) are basically halyards with thimbles set in eye splices. The bitter ends are reeved thru cheek blocks on the mast (set 127" above the mast pivot bolt) and secured to 3.5" cleats mounted (port & starboard) 3.5" above the mast pivot bolt. The lower part is a loop that is reeved thru the thimbles and the two fairleads set under the boom at 33" and 94" from the tabernacle. Two “fender hangers” are set on the mast (port & starboard) 13" above the mast pivot bolt). Sketch shows the setup.

The fairleads were fabricated from 3/4" mahogany scraps with its arch large enough for the “Quick Link” to pass thru. The lines are 3-stand 3/16" Classic Filament Polyester Line. The loop is 20 ft from the (spliced-on) Quick Link to the tip of an eye-splice. The halyards are 25 ft each with a “mark” made at 213" from the tip of the thimble. The halyards are belayed to the cleats at the point of the marks. The remaining 87" of line provides slack that is needed to lower the lazy jacks for trailer transport or so that (when not sailing) a canopy may be spread over the gaff and boom. Photo shows the halyards belayed to the cleats and stowage of the excess line.

The parts required are:

At least 80 feet of 3/16" line (WM Model 121913 @ $0.28/foot)
2 cheek blocks (Harkin #233 @ $13.51 ea)
2 3/16" SS thimbles (WM Model 126771 @ 1/49 ea)
One 1/8" Quick Link (WM Model 599282 @ $6.79)
2 SeaDog Fender Hooks (@ $5.39 ea)
2 3.5" cleats
2 3.5" wooden fairleads

Photo shows fabricated elements of Tattoo’s lazy jacks.

I appreciate Pete submitting these instructions. Lazyjacks make dousing sail vastly more convenient. I sail in a lake without a dock and without a motor, so getting back to the ramp while maintaining enough steerageway to avoid boats already at the ramp is challenging. You basically have to line it up and go in powered until just before crunching on the concrete - then pulling the sail down as fast as possible. Without lazyjacks the gaff and sail tends to fall everywhere.

My system is simplified from Tattoo's and lacks the adjustable halyard. A "topping lift" line runs from an eyestrap just above the mast track, down each side of the sail, to one of the eystraps holding the mainsheet blocks at the end of the boom. To have a little adjustability, I run one side of the line through the eyestrap at the end of the boom and tied a carabiner at the end. Then, alpine knots placed at intervals on the other line allow me to tighten or loosen the topping lift depending on my needs (tight when docked, loose when sailing so as to not interfere with sail shape).

The second foot of the lazyjacks is just one run of line from an alpine knot on one side of the topping lift, around the boom through an eyestrap, and back up to the other side.

I installed Pete's lazy jacks and I have to say they make a world of difference. I like them better than a topping lift because in addition to keeping the boom up they help contain the sail. Now when I douse the mainsail I don't have masses of sail all over the place, just a bit out past the extent of the lazy jacks. They also make it much easier to flake the sails in windy conditions. Before, when I'd get one layer all laid out and was ready to flake on the next, the wind would quickly undo my previous work. Until I master the art of making eye splices, though, I just have the eyes whipped around the thimbles. That works fine, but does not look as "slick."

Meanwhile, thanks to Pete McCrary for sharing his design!