Rudder mishap -- and proposed fix . .

[tattoo]

When shipping Tattoo's rudder this afternoon -- I heard water sloshing around inside the rudder. When turned upside down, water very slowly dripped from somewhere near the slot for the tiller. It's a small amount, probably less than a pint of Chesapeake water.

Rudder framework showing hollow space . .

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Close inspection shows a hairline crack at the heal of the rudder where it is epoxied to its "wing." I think it happened when [earlier, perhaps 2011 season] the outboard's prop "clipped" the wing. I didn't notice any damage other than a dent into the edge of the wing. I repaired that with some thickened epoxy. I also modified the transom cutout so that the outboard was raised by one inch. At the new height, the wing of the rudder is below the lowest swing of the prop. Also, the skeg (on the lowest point of the outboard's shaft), if pushed against the rudder, hits the wing and prevents the shaft (and the prop) from getting any closer to the rudder. Also, there is a limiting wedge on the tiller that prevents the rudder and outboard shaft from coming too close together (if I remember to move the wedge into place). But now the outboad's skeg actually prevents a collision of the prop and rudder wing (even if the wedge is not in place).

Aft end of Rudder & Wing (upside down). Notice "hairline" crack . .

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I seem to remember that I coated the inside plywood (of the rudder) with two coats of epoxy before assembly of the rudder. However, I can't remember if I did the same for the structural pieces. My concern is total removal of the water and drying out of any residual moisture. My plan is to drill a 1/4" vent hole thru the rudder near the top of the hollow space. Then place the rudder (broadside) to a heat lamp for several days (maybe even a week or so) keeping the surface temperature relatively high. When I think it's about as dry as it may get, then I'll plug the drilled holes with a 1/4" dowel epoxied in place. Comments, suggestions, please ...

Wing (oriented vertically) and aft end & port-side of Rudder. "Hairline" crack at fillet . .

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To repair the "hairline" crack I plan to remove the paint around the area by sanding. Then applying first unthickened epoxy and then thickened epoxy. Maybe I should also apply strips of fiberglass over the hairline crack at the same time that I apply the first coat of epoxy. Comments, suggestions, please ...

[chaertl]

Hi Pete,

I guess this is an open question to anyone . There's been some discusion about the water tight compartment in the keel, but the rudder has the same issue. Has anyone seen some kind of flush mount drain plug that could be added to these without causing a lot of drag? I almost added some stainless tubing from the lazzerette into the keel to pump out any water that might get in. After the problems I've had with leaking hatches I'm glad I didn't since it probably would have let water in.

Chris

[tattoo]

Chris,... Maybe a small plug above the waterline just under the frame at the top of the hollow space would be a good idea. I have to drill a hole there anyway -- so why not one big enough for a removable plug? I'm not so concerned about the spaces in the keel. I think they aren't subject to damage like the rudder wing. I enclosed the space under the foot well to be air tight -- and it's filled with flotation. My lazerette hatches also leak when it rains even though the frames are well sealed. After a big rain I've had as much as 6 to 8 inches accumulated. I've removed the hatches and will install a 1/2" frame around the open space before reinstalling the hatches. That should stop the water coming in (from the deck) because I don't think the rainwater ever gets deeper than about 1/4". Some water that falls on the hatch lid may find its way through the rubber gasket -- but my guess is that it's just a small portion ... I'm pretty sure that the water leaks thru the seal between the hatch lid and its frame. Also the latch and the hinges. Let me know if you find a source for a small (about an inch or less) removable plug. It'll be installed above the waterline so it needn't be perfectly flush or entirely waterproof. Hopefully others will come in with more ideas for a good or better fix. Thanks for your remarks.

[kilderkin]

Each of the bouyancy chambers on my Mirror dinghies uses deck bushes, made by Holt. Similar are found at:
http://holt.eu/documents/holt-hull-and- ... alogue.pdf
on page three - item number HT 339. These are low profile, and flush plastic plugs are available. Traditionally on the Mirror, they came with corks. To add class I use corks from a nice dry sherry, or maybe an upscale whisky.

SteveW