wire route to transom

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wire route to transom

Postby Bflat on Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:35 am

What's the best route for getting wire to the transom? Particularly, I'm wondering where to go through bulkhead 8 (watertight). Passing wire through bulkhead 8 under the floor boards keeps them out of sight, but places the wire low in the bilge at that point. Just lead it up the forward side of Bulkhead 8 and through higher up?

Also, where best should the wires exit to get to the transom (for stern light)? Through the seat back? Through the footwell side?

Thanks,
Bob
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby truenorth on Thu Oct 03, 2013 9:38 pm

Bob, I'm at the point of my build where these questions are weighing on me quite a bit. I've decided to run my wires under bulkhead 8. This will require modding the cleat to accept two 1" thru hulls: one for the wires and one for the bilge pump (the bilge pump will exit towards the back of the footwell). I'm aiming for a clean look and this is the only way I've been able to see how to do it. I have a liftout section of the sole back here to give me access to the thru hulls.

I've seen people put the stern light on the boom gallows with the wires running down the gallows pole and into the cabin, but not (as far as I can see) under BH8 but through the cabin, at least for a time. I think the boom gallows is a great place for a stern light but of course requires modding the boom gallows, which is a risk if you have a fancy laminated one like I do and don't trust your drilling ability. I don't recommend, however, running it out to the transom. This will require a permanent mount in the transom probably where your boat name will be. And if you have an outboard, you will block the light from certain angles. I haven't seen any transom-mounted lights on a PocketShip, likely for good reason. If you're set on a transom stern light, the simplest alternative is to finagle something to which you'd attach a wired or battery powered stern light wherever you decide to mount it, removing it when you're done.

A solution I'm giving strong consideration to is a pole-mounted stern light. The build is clean -- straight down through the locker and into the laz area. In the laz area, there would be a bus bar carrying all of the electrical aft forward. I've seen this on several PocketShips and it might be the best alternative.
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby DanaDCole on Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:12 pm

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Re: wire route to transom

Postby Bflat on Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:07 pm

I'm determined to not drill any holes in Bulkhead 8. If the lazarettes are prone to leaking I at least want to keep the water there and not let it in the cabin - even with a bilge pump at ready. Holes drilled low in bulkhead 8 are asking for trouble in my opinion no matter the calking, glans or conduit used. So, I'm pretty much planning on mounting a battery powered LED stern light on the gallows and be done with it. LEDs draw so little current that I'm convinced this is the way to go. I'm for keeping things simple. Like you said, Dana, "wireless."
Bob
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby Dave Archer on Tue Jun 10, 2014 1:54 am

I've routed mine under the floor boards to the stern via a small hole high up on bulkhead 8. I have no problems. I have my echo sounder mounted on the transom so needed 12 V. I also have a 12V socket at the stern for the light and also to charge the GPS if needed.
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby DanaDCole on Tue Jun 10, 2014 11:03 am

I was thinking of doing the same thing (high up on B8) or using a thru-hull connector just below the floorboards. If a good-quality thru-hull connector is rated to work below the waterline on the hull, I don't foresee any problems using one on B8. As of now, though, the stern light is the only one of two reason I can think of to run power back there so I think a battery-operated light of some kind would be simplest and easiest.

The solar-powered one I linked had four five-star reviews and one one-star review. In the one-star he said the light rusted pretty quickly and didn't last very long. Given the quality of various solar yard lights I have purchased that is definitely a concern. So the NaviLight 360 CLC advertises might be the best answer.

The other reason I might want to run power back there, though, is so I can install a "reliable" automatic bilge pump. If I do that I might as well go ahead and run the lines up for a stern light. There are some posts about a bilge pump, so my next step is to study those and see what people are recommending.
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby hood on Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:11 pm

connector for charging and taillight
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby hood on Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:22 pm

Shrouded connectors from water
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby truenorth on Tue Jun 10, 2014 11:33 pm

Hood isn't messing around. That is a high quality electronic thru-hull. Which brings me to the point... boats have thru-hulls everywhere, some below the waterline. If done well with the right equipment, they are safe and last for years. The key is to do all the little things that must be done to ensure a watertight fit, and when it fails (I'm not that naive) be sure there's access enough to fix it. I like that Hood left the rear "temporary" form in place. It makes for an elegant solution. I just finished sizing the seatbacks and after seeing this I'm tempted to use it.

I'll add, though, that there's something to be said for simplicity. A battery powered LED will last a long time, and it's certainly much less headache.
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Re: wire route to transom

Postby DanaDCole on Wed Jun 11, 2014 10:48 am

Looks good alright. That appears to be a Seachoice 10161 connector. Correct?

I didn't see anything about the B8 thru-hull though. Your point is well taken, Truenorth, that the thru-hull should be accessible when it fails. I think that trumps putting it below the floorboards. A little wire or conduit showing back there is less important than access. And it would be smart to get it above the waterline.

Looking at Hood's pictures, it appears that the connector is mounted with screws through a flange base. If those are wood screws, not bolts, then it should be easy enough to remove the screws, pull out the connector, and re-seal it, repair the connections, or whatever is needed. Obviously the flange should be on the forward side of the bulkhead to be accessible from inside the cuddy. If I put it a foot or two above the waterline I probably will not have any failure problems.
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