Weak Cleat

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Weak Cleat

Postby herbt on Sun Apr 13, 2014 6:59 pm

I put my full weight (190 lbs) on the cockpit deck near the rear cabin wall over the center cleat and the forward 6 inches of it sprang loose with a loud crack.. I managed to pull it back up with a couple of stainless steel screws that I left in and then ran a filet along both sides of the cleat under the deck. Hope this holds. The joint between the rear cabin wall and the cockpit deck held but I have been a little doubtful about this joint from the start, even with a large filet, so I am going to add another strip of 4 inch tape, feather it out and then double lap the glass from the rear cabin wall and the cockpit deck over it. Would hate to have this joint separate after finishing the boat. Just a word of caution to those yet to get to this place in their build.
Herb
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby Shudoman on Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:34 pm

Yep. I agree. I created a good fillet there and then over lapped 3 layers of biaxial tape. It might now be the strongest joint on the boat. Did the same thing where the top of the cabin meets bulkhead #2. Since my tabernacle is removable I wanted extra strength there too.

Bill
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby herbt on Mon Apr 14, 2014 4:47 pm

Not a bad idea on bulkhead 2. That has been another area of concern because of the strains caused by the mast even if the tabernacle is not removable. Have not had actual experience sailing this rig but I will bet the mast gets jerked around pretty good in a gusty breeze, or even when raising it if one does not have total control all the way up.

Why is your tabernacle removable? Storage head space?

Herb
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby Shudoman on Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:20 am

Storage space. No way would it fit in my garage if on a trailer. I've done measurements with the easy-tilt trailer I'm planning on buy and I should have a few inches of clearance if I remove the tabernacle and the boom support. I've got a 5 bolt arrangement on the tabernacle so it takes a few minutes to get it on/off. The boom support is just a couple of set screws and it comes right off.
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby chaertl on Wed Apr 16, 2014 6:52 am

One look at this joint and you can tell the glass is loaded in it's weakest direction. I glassed the inside of the joint to get some cloth in tension which is how it should be loaded. The large exterior fillet helps but it still loads all the cloth in compression.

Chris
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby herbt on Wed Apr 16, 2014 5:19 pm

Yes you are right. I have been thinking about taping the inside for a long time but hate to work epoxy in an upside down position. I know I am going to do it, just have to work myself up to it. Maybe just a 6 inch or so piece centered on both sides of the CB trunk. I know people are going to be jumping/stepping in that area and I don't want to be holding my breath every time they or I do it.

Herb
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby chaertl on Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:18 pm

I don't know where you are in construction Herb but I did mine when the boat was upside down to glass the bottom. It's a tight squeeze getting in there but far easier then trying to do it while the boat is right side up. Extra practice for getting in there to paint underside of the deck too.

Chris
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby herbt on Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:02 pm

Not a bad idea Chris. Right now I am getting ready to attach the seat backs, probably tomorrow.
When you had the boat upside down what did you have it propped up on?
Herb
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby chaertl on Fri Apr 18, 2014 5:17 am

The front was on an cheap furniture castor under the cabin top to give it some mobility. This had to be close to the forward bulkhead to spread the load and the back had jack stands on each corner. One person could still move it if they really tried but it was far easier with one person on each corner of the transom. This might not be an issue if your building area is bigger then mine was.

Chris
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Re: Weak Cleat

Postby DanaDCole on Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:39 pm

Herb,

I'm a visual learner. Got any pictures?

Thanks,
Dana Cole
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