Hatches

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Hatches

Postby herbt on Sun Jun 08, 2014 5:24 pm

I have decided to build my own flush hatches and hatch covers instead of the Bomar hatch covers specified in the plans.
They are self bailing and drain into the cockpit. I have included a couple of pictures and a quick description for anyone who might be interested. They are easy to construct on the pocketship because of the way it is framed according to plan. Carefully cut out a hole the size of the specified Bomar cutout, or you can make it any size not to exceed the width of the already existing frames. frame it out with 3/4 X 1 timber on 3 sides, one side is already framed, build a channel with 2 inch wide 9mm ply, stiffen the joints from underneath with butt blocks at the corners and complete the channel with 1/2 X 1 timber on the inside edges. This will leave a 3/4 inch channel for drainage all the way around . Drill 1/2 inch holes at the corners of the channel leading into the cockpit. Coat everything with lots of epoxy.
The cutouts can be used for the lids and they will be laminated around the bottom edges with 1/2 inch wide 9mm ply, then leave a 1 inch space for a thin sealing strip all the way around and then laminate the rest of the bottom of the lid with 9mm ply.
The lid will be finished of with perko adjustable latches and SS hinges.

Herb
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Re: Hatches

Postby craig on Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:03 pm

This is really cool. I had planned on making my own hatches rather than purchasing ones, but wasn't sure what the best way to install them was. I like the drainage system you set up. Maybe (well, certainly) this will prevent water from entering the compartment like other people have seen. I'm not close to this part of the build yet, but will certainly bookmark this to include later on. Thanks for posting :)

Can you post pictures of the lid when you complete it? I'd love to see (and copy!!!) how you rigged that part, too.
Titania, launched January 2015
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Re: Hatches

Postby Bflat on Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:17 am

Very intriguing.

Not to be a naysayer, but it would seem that for the channels to drain the boat will need to be nearly perfectly level. If on the trailer slightly askew or parked on unlevel ground or heeling under sail in a downpour the hatch on the low side won't drain.

Flush hatches will be nice, though. I'll be anxious to see more pics and hope it works well.

Bob
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Re: Hatches

Postby DanaDCole on Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:39 pm

This may be getting too complicated, but what about two holes at the opposite corners with PVC tubing leading to the hull and out?
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Re: Hatches

Postby craig on Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:10 pm

I guess it could leak. I did a quick calculation and got roughly 7 degrees as the limit of tilt before you start to leak on the lower side. That sounds a bit lower than I expected just by looking at it, but anyway, you'll never (shouldn't) be tilting more than 7 degrees permanently on the water. You could when trailering. I plan on installing drains inside the compartment itself, so that isn't a problem for me.

(Edit: I think you'd have the same problem with a non-flush mounted hatch. He's just moved the sill to inside the hatch rather than outside of it. A normal construction with 1 inch sill outside would have the same leaking issue, which is probably why everybody's bomar hatch leaks -- water pools at the level of the hatch and finds a way in).
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Re: Hatches

Postby DanaDCole on Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:43 pm

As to the Bomar hatches, when I sailed with Captain Charlie last summer he said he had used a bedding strip and that his had never leaked--at least had not until then. He told me where to order the strip and I did, although it will be a long time before I am ready to use them. I will contact him to find out if they are still not leaking and if not, where to get them. Will post the answer here.
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Re: Hatches

Postby herbt on Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:53 pm

All good comments
I have used Bomar and other factory hatches in the past and they usually find a way to take on some water regardless of how they are installed, calked, sealed, etc.
There will be a sealing strip on the underside of the hatch lid that will contact the inside rim of the drain channel. I know that this will not defeat a serious permanent list to one side or another but will discourage water intrusion on a temporary basis such as boat movement while sailing or trailering. Use a little caution when parking on a trailer for long periods of time.
If there is serious concern about draining all four corners it can be done with some plumbing and instead of drilling the holes where I did maybe join front and rear tubing and come out to the foot well a little lower with thru hulls. Before I go through all that I am going to see how well the existing design works. Problem with plumbing is it usually finds a way to get clogged with leaves or other stuff.
3/4 inch holes might provide better drainage but don't know if it is required.
If the Bomar hatch is used be sure to stiffen the opening with frame work to eliminate any flexing or leakage is assured.

Herb
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Re: Hatches

Postby DanaDCole on Mon Jun 09, 2014 11:16 pm

Well, I surely look forward to seeing how this all works out. One thing I know, wood hatches will look a lot better than plastic.
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Re: Hatches

Postby herbt on Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:30 am

Following are some pictures of the completed flush hatches and some notes on construction. Since the drain channels will surely flood in a heavy rain or as some noted at the wrong tilt I tested the hatch by plugging the drain holes and flooding the channels with buckets of water so that water flowed over the lids and am happy to report that not a drop of water entered the boat.
I also stepped on the hatch without problems so it will support at least 200 pounds.
One way to overcome the tilt problem would be to slope the channel toward the foot well but this would involve more complicated carpentry although i have seen plans that do . Another way would be to add a drain hole or 2 in the hinge side of the channel and plumb it out thru the transom, hull or foot well via thru hulls.
The rear of the channel (hinge side) must be at least 3/16 wider than 3/4 to allow the hatch lip to clear the inner channel wall when opening the hatch.
The hatch lids must not be wrapped
The inner channel walls must be even all the way arround with no defects
A small fillet (popsicle stick size) is recommended at all corners of the channel
A piece of alluminum should be epoxied to the underside of the channel where the latch arm makes contact.

It should take a small amount of force to close and latch the hatch.

I used a 1/8 thick by 3/4 wide hatch gasket and latches obtained from Defender Marine

If you do decide to build your own hatches be prepared to spend some time fussing and fitting.

Good luck

Herb
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Re: Hatches

Postby DanaDCole on Tue Jun 17, 2014 12:26 pm

Wow, beautiful work! I might make the attempt. The biggest thing that worries me, though is cutting the hatches out of the existing seats. I can be about 99% sure I will screw that up. Maybe I can locate some local guy who is really good and hire out that part of the job. (Or maybe I'll get some pointers on this forum--probably will :) )

I do have one question: You say the hatches should not be wrapped. Did you mean not wrapped with fiberglass or did you mean not be warped?
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