PocketShip.net

I will install the rub rails this week or next, so thought I'd post ahead of time in case anybody wants to offer some suggestions. This is one area where the manual and blogs don't go into much detail. Maybe it will be easier than I'm anticipating? I'll upload my pictures when I'm done.

So far, I've ripped the wood into strips of the appropriate size with a 103 degree bevel on on side, per the plans. There's no way I can glue these scarf joints together ahead of time and get them straight, so I'll scarf on the boat. My plan is to use one screw to attach an 8-foot strip in about the middle of the boat, with scarf tapers cut at both ends. Then, using that as the swivel point, work my way down towards the bow, screwing it into the boat every foot or so, making sure the curve looks good. Next, take another strip and start from the end of the first piece until I reach the bow. Repeat for the stern.

Craig, dont know why you think you cant get the rails straight by gluing up before installation. It will make the install easier if you do and it will be easier to get a nice flowing line on the boat with no zigs or zags. If you have a work table with a straight edge just clamp them to the table lined up with the edge, using plastic sheets under the joints.
Herb

Thanks for the feedback. I think you're probably right assuming that I can align everything up correctly. Cutting and gluing scarf joints has been my absolute nemesis throughout this project, and I'm not really sure why. Practice makes perfect, so by the time I get to boat #10 maybe I'll have figured it out. Last night I built a circular saw jig to cut scarf joints and they came out somewhat OK. I'll temporarily screw them together and see if I can get a them straight enough without any twist.

I used black walnut for my rub rails. In the end they came out beautifully. I cut the scarfs and glued them as I attached them to the boat (much like you were going to try). The problem for me came when trying to do some of the tighter bends (ie at the bow). Each time I tried to do it the wood split. After several of these misfires I tried soaking the wood. That made it a little better but still couldn't negotiate the bow without splitting. I ended up making a steam box out of some 4" pvc. That did the trick. I steamed the wood then quickly bent it around the boat and temporarily screwed it in place until it dried. After taking out the temporary screws the wood retained much of its curvature and then I could reattach with epoxy at my leisure. Was a lot of work but I couldn't argue with the results.

Bill

Hi everyone, I know its too late for some, but I'll tell you how I did the rub rails. I went to the local hardwood lumber yard in the Little Rock area and had them cut 16' strips of Makore (a type of mahogany) which I used for all the trim, etc. Per side there were 4 pcs 1 1/4", 4 pcs 1", and 4 pcs 3/4" , all by 1/4" thick. I started glueing and screwing to the side, starting at the bow, each side. I had no trouble at all making bends. The top of the rail is smooth while I left the bottom in a kinda upside down staircase. A little pricy, but well worth it I thought. captain charlie

Craig
I pre assembled my rails using epoxy and clamps. You want to keep the screw holes to a minimum so as not to weaken the rails and to avoid splitting or breaking in the bow area where the bend is the most severe.
Then dry mount the rail (no epoxy) on the boat starting in the center then toward the stern with a minimum of screws. Then soak the forward part of the rail with hot water and gradualy pull it in snug to the bow. Use as much hot water as you need. The rail will slowly give to the bend. Then tie it off or put in a couple of screws and let it sit untill dry. It will take most of the shape of the boat. You can then epoxy and screw it on permanent without too much strain. Use only as many screws as needed to make good contact with the boat.
Herb

Thanks everybody for the advice. I was very worried about this portion of the build since the consequences of error can't be covered up with epoxy or fiberglass like all my other little boo-boos. I removed the last of the screws from the rails last night and everything seems to have gone well. Hert: I followed your advice almost verbatim. Gluing the scarf joints together in advance seems definitely preferable. I was concerned with aligning them correctly (where instead of being perfectly straight they are slightly crooked), so used my 2-foot straightedge to align them, then temporarily screwed the scarf joint in two places to lock in place while gluing. I also realized that the wood will naturally bend to the correct shape, and as long as the scarf joint is not extremely bent, a small imperfection will not be visible on the boat. Now back to sanding...

Glad it worked out well. I have shattered enough rails, sheer clamps, chine logs,etc. to learn that wet heat, patience, and time are the secrets to bending wood. The fibers need time to soften and bend and not break. Pre bending is always a good idea if you have the time and the job allows.

Herb

Well, I just tried installing the rub rails and failed miserably. I actually didn't have a problem with the wood splitting. I can't get the screws to hold in the plywood. It just rips out. I haven't used hot water, steam, or heat yet, because the wood bends fine. How did folks get the screws to stay in the plywood? The last time I put a bunch of screws in the hull, it was to align the topsides and bottom sides. I used a scrap piece of plywood as a backer but of course can't use a backer here because it's below and/or behind the walls.

Not sure what options there are otherwise...

I think I used regular sheetrock or drywall screws, captain charlie