PocketShip.net

Surely I am not the first one to ask about this, but I tried several different kinds of searches and got nowhere. On page 82 in the manual it states, "With structural fiberglass done and the entire interior awaiting a final coat of epoxy, you can remove the 'break away' sections of Bulkhead 7." I'm having some problems with this. What about the fiberglass panels that should overlap where the "break away" sections are? What about the fillet? The break away sections are right in the way of both those operations. Still, I can see why it might be best to wait. That skinny little piece of plywood that is left is mighty weak and liable to be broken when you're climbing around in there trying to work. Putting the top cleat in first might help, but it is not really supposed to go all the way across as shown in the picture on 82, so would not add a lot of strength.

Here is how I am thinking I might solve the problem:
1. Get all the filleting done except the bit at Bulkhead 7.
2. Install all the cleats for Bulkhead 7.
3. Cut out the break away sections after the epoxy has set.
4. Finish the fillets at the two gaps.
5. Do the inside fiberglass work.
There is no need to climb in the boat to do steps 4 and 5, but I would still need to be careful not to lean on or otherwise put pressure on what is left of Bulkhead 7.

I think this might work as long as I am careful, but I would love to hear how others have approached this.

You would be surprised at how strong that bulkhead is. Before removing the breakaway section, I added a small fillet to the upper portion of the bulkhead where it attaches to the hull. I then added a cleat all the way across the bulkhead to the centerboard trunk. That way I could do all the filleting and fiberglassing in the interior at one time. Later, when it was time to install the rest of the framing, I just cut out the part of that cleat which was covering the framing hole. Nothing wrong with your steps though. Seems like it will work fine

One idea leads to another. After I cut away the "break away" sections, I think I'll clamp a chunk of 1x4 all the way across instead of glueing on the skinny little cleat.

What I and some others did was to cut out only enough of the cut out to get the fillets and glass in unhindered while leaving enough of the cut out section in place to keep some strength until it was ready to be completely removed at a later time.

Thanks for another great idea. What I did before reading this one was to clamp a piece of 1x2 all the way across the beam. I was going to use 1x4, but found a piece of 1x2 handy and it seems plenty strong. I have done all the filleting and a couple times did not realize I was leaning on the clamped 1x2--but no mishaps.

I did not fillet the small ends of Bulkhead 7. There are already small glue (epoxy & silica) "fillets" there and I feel they are strong enough, plus no fiberglass has to lie on them. If anybody has a reason to put fillets there, please let me know.

It's not called for in the plans and is probably unnecessary, but I went ahead and filleted and glasses that small portion. It made me feel more comfortable since the gluing space on that bulkhead is so small. Again, it is certainly not necessary.

I partially cut away bulkhead 7 to get the fillet down, then cut away the rest once that cured. The first photo here illustrates:

http://sunmonkeypocketship.blogspot.com ... gress.html

Yes, you will have to be careful about moving about the interior once this is done, but it's a pretty strong connection. As a side note, it was a little tough to clean up the nubs here where it connected to the cutaway parts. Since this is a highly visible spot in the cabin, you'll want to make this polished. It'll take some finesse but it'll come through.

I didn't put 'glass there but it's a good idea, if only to provide a little extra support when you're forcing the cleats and footwells.