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Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 4:21 pm
by mark48
PocketShip Trailex owners...

I like Dana's (and others') roller modifications to their Trailex trailers to allow access to the keel. I'm not sure I'd want to trailer the boat over distances when the keel is supported by three rollers instead of the carpeted plank originally supplied (worrying that bumps focused on three rollers might damage the keel more than when supported along its entire length). But for storing the boat on a trailer over time (e.g., winter in New Hampshire), it seems that rollers would be preferable.

So I purchased two roller sets from Trailex (they now come as straight cylinders rather than the "V-shaped" configuration Dana received). I removed the keel trough, installed and leveled the rollers (cutting the roller length down to 6"), notched the existing trough sides, and added a spacer block of pressure-treated wood. The trailer is reassembled as shown in the photos below. I've saved all the parts I took off so I can swap back and forth - and changeover is pretty simple.

Now I have to adjust the bow roller support so the centerboard is over a roller and (I hope) the bowsprit doesn't interfere with CRV trunk opening....

All the best,
Mark

Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 2:24 pm
by Wayne G
Hi Mark,

Looks good. I like that the setup can accommodate either rollers or the original carpeted board.
What are the spacers for? Is this so the aluminum angle upright supports do not need to be repositioned when changing between rollers or the base board?

The center photo shows the head of one of the securing fasteners on the inside carpeted face of the side bunk. Is this recessed enough so as not to contact the keel if the boat is resting on the extreme edge of the roller?

Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:01 am
by mark48
Hi Wayne,

You had an active PS Forum day yesterday. :-)

I cut the carpet overlying the carriage bolt heads on the inner face of the keel trough sides so I could remove those bolts. Using a Forstner bit, I recessed the opening so that a lag bolt head, when reinstalled, would be inset below the board's (and carpeted) surface so the boat keel cannot touch metal there.

The roller axle is one size, and the roller is about 8" in length. Cutting the roller down to 6" leaves significant axle length on either side of the roller. I worried more about the keel slipping into the gap and didn't want to bend the side boards. To maintain a consistent 6" trough width, I notched the sideboards as shown so the wooden sideboards cover most of the axle protruding from the roller on either side. The holes through the sideboards did not align with the holes in the aluminum "L" brackets, so I used SS lag bolts (of different lengths) to fasten the side boards to the vertical block, and the "L" bracket to the block from the outboard side. (The bolts are offset vertically by ~1.5".)

Changing from rollers to trough will only require removing the rollers and setting the trough in place, replacing the lag bolts which fasten the trough to the trailer. I may need to loosen the trough side supports and move them outboard fractions of an inch, but not much. With the next changeover, I'll have set the sideboard positions so they won't need to be moved again.

I will install the lateral trailer guide posts (to help land the PS onto the trailer in a cross-wind) when Puffin is next on the trailer. I have one set but I see you have two. Do you find the forward pair essential? Also, thanks for the detail about your motor mount and gas suggestions. I especially appreciate the photo showing the mount in relation to the transom skirt. I've been obsessing about the placement of the mount vertically and horizontally on the transom for some time. I'm almost settled on the Honda 2.3 although the Lehr LP outboard is on my list too (but not available in a long shaft I think, which would rule that out). It's a purchase for next spring.

All the best,
Mark

Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:40 am
by Wayne G
This is kind of off thread topic but Shudoman has some nice photos of his Torqueedo setup in the photo gallery.

Regarding the trailer guides, I mostly sail solo and had real difficulty in getting the keel to land in the trailer trough when retrieving the boat on the ramp. The guides at the rear of the trailer center up the boat as the bow is pulled in, so I suppose these are the most effective guides. While not totally necessary the forward guides snug up against the widest part of the hull and force the boat to sit dead center in the trough. I also like that they add some lateral support to the boat when on the road.
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Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 12:17 pm
by riverron
Hey Wayne,
Where did you get the guides? West Marine?

thanks

Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 2:46 pm
by Wayne G
Ron,

Amazon

Aft end rollers
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Forward bunks
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Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 4:38 pm
by riverron
Thanks Wayne!

Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 5:04 pm
by mark48
Hi Ron,

The guides come one pair to the order - obviously - but I missed that fact when I ordered my guides following Wayne's example and suggestion...and that's why I asked Wayne if the second, forward pair was considered essential. I haven't ordered a second pair yet.

Mark

Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:17 pm
by TassiePete
Hi everyone,

I made this little mod to my trailer (not a Trailex) to "catch" the keel while retrieving the boat. Something like this may also work with other trailers.

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It is a length of 6 mm Dyneema running from an eyebolt on the inside of the rail (bunk), around the bolts which hold the last roller in place, up through an eyebolt on the other rail. This end is fixed to a rigging screw (just visible on the left). The other end of the rigging screw is fixed to the trailer frame. The line is taut (!!) and it does not interfere with the roller. There is about 1/2" between the line and the roller itself. As the boat float onto the trailer, the keel is guided exactly to the centreline. Because Dyneema is relatively soft and very slippery, there won't be any scrapes on the paint. This setup works like a charm, and it is cheap :D.

Peter

Re: Modifications to Trailex Trailer

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 7:57 am
by mark48
Hi Peter,

That is elegant! Thanks for the photo and description.

Mark