Any concerns with beaching?

[riverron]

Are there any concerns with beaching Pocket Ship? We typically like sailing and then stopping at a beach (sand) to explore or have lunch! I have seen pictures on the CLC website, but I have also read on here about concerns with the keel. Should I do anything different in the build if I plan to do this? Do others do this?

I am still about 6 months out from starting. I am working on my build space now.

[John in CC]

I have had no problems with mine. I did put an extra few layers of cloth on the leading edge of the keel just to add a bit of strength and durability. When I beached it in the picture below I anchored it for a bit of safety. This was from the Texas 200 Day2 Camp. I slept on the boat with no problems except it did lean to one side slightly due to the grounding.

[mark48]

Hi John,

What is that blue tape you're using in the photo above (and we were using at WBS this summer)?

And please briefly describe the next step(s) in removing the excess FG cloth and tape / residue. I see others making extensive use of tape (e.g., when applying FG to the various sections of the interior hull of the PS between floors, overlapping FG up the sides and onto the floors) but I'm not clear on how the tape is removed (from under recently wetted-out FG) without injuring the layer of cloth and epoxy beneath the tape. Once the excess cloth is removed, I understand the need to fair the edge into the rest of the hull surface, but I don't understand how the cloth and deeper tape are removed. If there's a builders' tip discussing this or it's in the PS manual, a reference would be fine.

Thanks much,
Mark

[riverron]

John,
Thanks for responding and love the looks of your boat! I have read through your blog a few times.

Did you ever consider Carbon Fiber Tape or CLC sells a kit that uses Dynel Fabric? I don't know how concerned I should be.
I am sure the original CLC boat is getting a beating with all the demos and seems to be holding up. But then again, they have lots of people that can repair it easily. I also don't expect to be that rough on it as well.


Mark,
I think the tape is used to get a straight edge to the cloth. I have never done it, since I am not building yet, but that is what I can tell. The epoxy won't adhere to the tape, so when it is setup some, you can use a knife to cut a straight edge along the tape.
I have seen it on http://leeboatworkspocketship.blogspot.com. Look at what he does in 2011 - Oct. post. I will also defer to more experts on this forum for their advice.

thanks
Ron

[mark48]

Hi RiverRon,

Thanks for the reference. I see the photos and have seen other blogs' photos showing similar work. I gather that when one "knifes" along the edge of the tape to result in a clean edge, the deeper surface (e.g., plywood, or adjacent FG layer which is being overlapped) will sustain a cut...and that subsequent application of epoxy in the fairing process seals the cut? This sounds like an unnecessary focus on detail work, but I wouldn't want to cut something which isn't to be cut in my zeal to make a clean edge; I just want to clearly understand the process since clean seams in overlapping FG layers are a recurring requirement.

Best to all,
Mark

[JonLee]

The masking tape method is purely to help give a nice clean edge to a new layer of fiberglass. You can certainly do without it, just at the likely cost of additional sanding required.

I usually use a 1" blue masking tape for this. I like the blue because of the colour contrast. I am not aware of any reason any old masking tape would not work.

At a summary level, the process is:
1. Tape off the area to which you are applying fiberglass. The inside edge of the tape is where the 'glass will eventually be trimmed back to.
2. Lay out the 'glass and smooth it down as usual. Trim the 'glass back to around the outer edge of the tape. It doesn't have to be too precise, though for best result you'll want it to overlap onto the tape by at least a 1/2 inch. I usually trim it to the outer edge of the tape and try to err on leaving it long.
3. Wet out the fiberglass per the normal procedure. Wet out at least 1/2" onto the tape, but try not to wet out beyond the outer edge of the tape, or you'll get the joy of additional cleanup.
4. Wait 1-2 hours to allow the epoxy to set up some before starting the "trim" step. Do not wait any more than 4 hours because you'll start risking not ever being able to remove the tape. Epoxy will certainly adhere the 'glass to the tape and and even soak through the tape and bond it to the subsurface. Also, you *can* trim the excess and peel the tape right after wetting it out, but at greater risk of not getting a nice edge (leaving threads, pulling up the cloth and introducing air bubbles, etc.). Waiting an hour or two is best.
5. Use a razor knife (Xacto knife, utility knife, etc) to trim the newly-wetted out fiberglass along the inside edge of the tape. Applying the right pressure here is key. You need enough pressure to cut all the way through the new fiberglass layer, but not so much that you cut into the substrate (whether it is plywood or fiberglass or whatever). Since there were a few questions earlier in the thread, I'll say it again...the goal is only cut the new layer of fiberglass and avoid cutting into whatever is beneath it. It is probably a little easier to get the right pressure than it sounds, especially if let the epoxy set up some (see step 4).
6. Pull up the tape. The trimmed-off fiberglass should come off with the tape.

The tape plays two key roles in this process First, it give you a visual line to trim along. Second, it facilitates the removal of the excess fiberglass by providing some "structure" for the 'glass you are trimming/removing.

[mark48]

Hi Jon,

Thank you for the explanation. It sounds like waiting the appropriate time interval, using the right amount of pressure on a sharp blade - and experience - are key to success.

Looking forward to it,
Mark

[John in CC]

Yes, the blue masking tape is used to make a clean edge. I lay down the the blue "line" where I want the edge to be. The two keys are applying the epoxy just over the top of the tape without going over. That is why I use the wide stuff. The other key is to cut the excess off when the epoxy is "green" before it hardens too much (about two hours). Better to cut a little early than too late but the is a fairly large window of opportunity to do a neat job. After the cut with a razor knife is made next to the tape, the excess peals off very nicely.

Here is a little better before and after shot...

[truenorth]

For me, learning the blue tape technique was invaluable during the latter parts of the build when you're working with highly visible areas, such as the interior of the cabin and the cockpit. The most important thing is to not wet the 'glass beyond the outside edge of the tape as you'll wind up sealing the tape and that's just no good. If you're careful with the wet out, you'll be able to let the epoxy sit for awhile and come back to "crack" the glass back across the tape and not use the knife at all. It's then a simple sanding to prep it for the next layer.

Here's a post from a year ago:
http://sunmonkeypocketship.blogspot.com ... s-fun.html

ps: man, I miss my boat....

[JonLee]

Your boat probably misses too. You two should get back together. You are so close to done!

Hope the new job is going well.