PocketShip.net

Hello All:

I've been fascinated with the Pocketship idea as presented in the current Woodenboat issue. I've reviewed the website at length, and want to resolve a couple concerns before proceeding further.

1) The cuddy cabin looks great in the photos, but there is a lack of interior shots that give scale to the under deck "footwell" space used sleeping two in the cabin. The website indicates an "Interior" video is forthcoming, and that would be great to see. I can live with small spaces, but I do want to ascertain my wife won't feel claustrophobic sleeping. I'll probably be relegated to sleeping in the cockpit anyways, to give wife & small son the cabin.

2) My venues are: a) 25 mile stretch of the Ottawa river - about 1-2 miles wide and b) Lake Huron on the Bruce Peninsula. Auxiliary power is an evil necessity at times, and I would like to see how people have solved the eggbeater outboard problem (I have a 3HP Evinrude). Storage for the outboard is a question as well (lifting motor mount?)

3) Is there any provision for (unaided) climbing back on board from a swim? I sail a performance skiff with my ten year son and he happily drops off the boat often when he feels hot. There looks to be a fair amount of freeboard. Swimming also is usual shore access when anchoring out a small boat like this. I realize this is probably more a freshwater thing than in the Chesapeake. Dragging a tender with a 15' boat seems kind of silly.

4) Have any thoughts gone into the boom tent idea? Given the wide gallows, a good sized area is available there. The only criteria I'd personally want solved is mosquito screening. I'm not afraid of a sewing machine though.

5) Is the cabin top edge step-safe for moving to the anchor well, or should that be done on the rubrail?

6) I've always removed wire stitching after taping the inside by heating the wire and pulling - is this how you recommend it, or to you cut & leave the copper in like we used to do in Mirror dinghies?

That's it for now - once I get a feel for these issues, I'll probably buy a plan set.

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Bill

I can answer #'s 1 and 6 for you.

1) I drove down to the shop to check out the pocketship and the cabin is even bigger than i expected. I'm 6 foot tall and don't like tight spaces. I would have no problem sleeping in there. I was sitting up in the cabin with another 6 foot tall guy and it was comfortable. My concern was was hitting my feet when laying down and it wasn't an issue.

6) They suggest a "tack weld" technique where you glue between the wires then pull the wires and make a wider fillet once the wires are out. If a few wires get glued in you can heat them and pull them out, but I can't imgaine having to heat and twist out every single wire. It's also not copper wire it's heavier gauge steel wire.

Thanks for the answers!

I kind of suspect the cabin is roomier than the drawings indicate. Foot spacing was my concern as well. Since John is over 6', I thought it should be big enough for him to roll over!

I've always used copper wire on stitch & tape builds, but that is just probably my limited experience and access to salvaged 14 gauge scrap. I've gone and found junk wire, and had stripping sessions in front to the TV in the winter. Steel should work fine and be a lot cheaper. I've got a couple garages lined up for the tire weights - they are in the process of changing to steel as well.

I can see the "tack" bonding working, but it would make for slower assembly and uneven fillets if you aren't careful. I'm used to using a pastry bag and following with a spoon. I guess you've got to have faith in the process they provide! I kind of worry about the bond between the "old" tacks and the new "filler" sections - things would have to happen in a limited time span to avoid amine blush & failure of the chemical bond.

Thanks,

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Bill

I am just starting with the Pocketship but have been considering two ideas that relate to your questions. First I was planning on putting a folding swim ladder on the stern, mostly for safety in case I go swimming by accident. Secondly, I do not like gas outboards. They do the job but are noisy, messy and put the weight too high. I am looking at an electric trolling motor by Minnkota that is designed to be mounted on the cavitation plate of a large outboard. I think it would push the Pocketship right along and all controls would be in the cockpit. The batteries could be mounted low and center next to the centerboard acting as additional ballast.
Michael Bragg

The Pocketship manual claims that the wing/endplate on the rudder can be used to help board the boat from the water. My Pocketship will not be in the water until late summer so I do not have any personal insight yet into how well the endplate will perform for boarding.

I also have decided to use a trolling motor for auxiliary power. A 50 lb thrust motor with battery and charger should cost less than $400 US, much less than a gas outboard, and more environmentally friendly to boot. Maintenance will be non-existent compared to a gas outboard except for keeping the battery charged. A standard transom mounted trolling motor weighs 25-30 lbs and should be easy to remove and store below or perhaps even in the seatback storage ( as construction proceeds I will have a better idea exactly how big the seatback storage is).

Dave

You might want to go on the Duckworks website and take a look at the following.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/gear/scullmatix/index.htm
Seems to me that for something the size of Pocketship that's all that's necessary and a whole bunch cheaper too!

That looks awesome, i'm definitly going to make sure i incorporate an oarlock into my bo transom so i can try this out, maybe reinforce it a little from underneath.

John, You should try this on Pocketship 1 as soon as the weather is a little nicer and let us know how it works. I know you have mentioned the possibility of a Yuloh from the beginning, this looks so simple.