1/2 Round-over on Keel Assembly

[riverron]

I did the 1/2" round-over on the inside edges of the keel assembly and the bottom, but have a question. When I get to the nose-block, I went about a third of the way down it and stopped. How far should I go? Do I use the router to do the entire edge or round-over the nose-block with sandpaper? I assume it needs to be rounded over to have fiberglass applied. What did others do?

thanks

[chaertl]

Hi Ron,

Most of the nose block will need to be done by hand with sandpaper. Routers work well when you have a corner that's 90 degrees or pretty close. They don't work so well on odd angles like the nose block. About a year ago I had to do some repair work to the leading edge of the nose block and someone suggested putting a flat on it and using some rope soaked in epoxy to reinforce it. Next time I'm working on it that's what I'll be doing but looking at your blog this would be a good time to consider it. The nose block takes a hit every time the boat gets winched onto the trailer and eventually the wood compresses under the glass cloth.

Take care,

Chris

[riverron]

Thanks Chris. I will definitely consider that mod. I recall seeing a thread on the subject and will search for it.

For the rope, are you going to run the rope starting from the nose block all the way along the bottom of the keel?
How about the area of the centerboard?

[chaertl]

Hi Ron,

I'm just going to do the leading edge of the nose block. That's where most of the wear and tear occurs. I pulled the Chucky B. off the trailer to inspect and repair the bottom of the keel last year and the center board area looked almost new after four years. It was a quick off and on but the leading edge had some damage that let water into the wood from compressing on the roller at the end of the keel trough. It was to late when the rope trick was suggested but next time it's getting done.

Chris