PocketShip.net

Hopefully over time the centerboard will eventually drop under its own weight without assistance, but I do like having direct access to the centerboard from above for those times when it sticks; I have also sailed it with the board 2/3 down in the hope it would drop when going about, no luck there, but the boat did track nicely even then.

Bill, I dropped you a PM with my email address.

Hi,

Sorry to re-open this thread. I am about to start construction, so I am reading every bit about PocketShips. I like the idea of having an opening on top of the centerboard case to give the board a nudge if required. The question is, why not use this opening for the pendant as well ? I would simplify things, because there would be no need for the sheave, axle and shims either. To get the geometry right, the hole would have to be a bit further forward. The hole could have a little keyhole shaped plate on top, and a knot in the pendant ( at the right length ) will hold the board up. Then again, I might be missing something here ...

Cheers,

Peter

I don't see why that wouldn't work. One drawback with that arrangement where the pendant is brought through the cockpit decking close to the cabin entrance could be that it becomes a tangled tripping nuisance. It's nice and neat and out of the way when it is brought through the footwell.

I think I may have already posted these on another thread but they kinda belong in this one...it has been a while. Anyway I took Candy-O over to a friend's shop to figure out the problem and as it turned out the inspection hatches/doors whatever they are called were slightly rubbing on the centerboard causing enough friction to hang up the board most of the time. After a while it would fall...sometimes. Anyway, easy fix. Just cut off a bit of the lip and reinstall the the inspection ports. The centerboard is a free as a bird now.

Another thing I noticed was the board when it did go down went a bit too far (as seen in the closeup picture) I raised the board to the correct position and took the slack out of the pendant and then marked where the knot should be. The old knot was carefully measured when it was first tied but I guess as the knots (the one on the board and the one up top) tightened and seated in moved (stretched or whatever) and got a little long. I have retied the knot and the travel is now perfect. I have not measured it but I would be will to bet it is the exact measurement John Harris recommends.

I am getting ready for the Texas 200 again. It will start in a couple of weeks. I am doing a video again this year and promise to be better than last year's.

Sail Safe,
John

That is a good point Wayne, re the trip hazard. I might have to think about a solution for that. A modified recessed lift ring ( normally used to lash things down ) comes to mind. Remove the hinge pin, drill a hole through the base, and attach (?) the pendant to the ring slightly forward of the hinge. When the center-board is down, the lift ring sits flat in its base - and the ring is used to pull up the board.
Thanks John, for the hint re the inspection plates. It seems a good idea to dry-fit the plates before gluing up the case, to make sure the flanges don't intrude into the case. If too much needs to be trimmed of the flanges, it is always possible to add a shim on the outside of the case.

Cheers,

Peter

TassiePete wrote:. It seems a good idea to dry-fit the plates before gluing up the case, to make sure the flanges don't intrude into the case. If too much needs to be trimmed of the flanges, it is always possible to add a shim on the outside of the case.

I have a wide belt sander. It made quick work knocking down the thickness of those flanges : )

John

Yep, noticed this, too. I'm not sure if filing the inspections down will completely solve the problem as there have still been isolated cases of the center getting stuck. My guess is that there are either bows in the trunk itself or the board or both. But the inspection ports are definitely something that builders should be aware of!

http://sunmonkeypocketship.blogspot.com ... dings.html

I really like the idea of the hole and push down thingy. If I can find a garage in the DC area to drag my boat to, I'll be installing these, too.

Another drawback comes to mind where if you don't install the sheave during construction, and you decide the pendant through the cockpit arrangement is not good, it would require some major re-construction to install the sheave later.

Regarding the inspection plates, from memory there is about 1/8" clearance from the centerboard to the trunk wall (assuming the board is perfectly centered in the trunk), so the plate flanges and screw in plates should be close to flush with the trunk.

@ truenorth,
The access hole for the push down thingy was drilled from the cockpit so can be done on the trailer or on the water, no need to lift the boat. Just be careful to center the hole above the trunk. I used the centerboard pendant hole in the footwell as a reference to the trunk center.

I just finished installing the inspection plates on the centerboard. I purchased the "Sea Dog" plates from CLCBoats and they are the exact thickness as the plywood. I used 1/2" screws per recommendations on the forum and everything is completely flush. If I do have issues, it won't be the inspection plates. I am thinking about installing the port like Wayne did, just in case. It will probably be easier during the build than after.

Ordering from CLC is unfortunately not an option for me - the freight charges make things way to dear. I have ordered some plates on the 'inter-webs', and have the tools for abrasive action on standby. I will make sure these things will be flush.

Cheers.