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Padeyes $$$$$

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 1:03 pm
The specified Schaefer 7805 padeyes are amazingly expensive, over $25.
Has anyone found a good substitute that doesn't cost so much?

The Harken 2759 (https://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=39852) looks like it
might be suitable, and it's about half the price.

It's funny: you can get generic Chinese padeyes on Amazon that are superficially similar to the Schaefer ones
for a couple of dollars each...

Doug

Re: Padeyes $$$$$

PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 3:17 pm
by Bflat
If you check the specs you should be able to find the max load limits. If those figures are similar they'll probably work.
Bob

Re: Padeyes $$$$$

PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 4:04 pm
Bflat wrote:If you check the specs you should be able to find the max load limits. If those figures are similar they'll probably work.
Bob


The Harken ones have a 3X greater max working load...

Re: Padeyes $$$$$

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 4:40 am
by TassiePete
I think you might be over-estimating the forces on a 15' gaffer. Besides, there is a much greater chance that the 3 mm wood screws holding the pad-eyes in softwood (!) get ripped out of the timber, or, that the nut strips the threaded rod (especially 316, rather than 304), before the pad-eye itself fails. I have a few '4 mm Balustrade Saddles' (10 for ~$5.00) and 'el-cheapo' pad-eyes (~$2.00) on the boat, and none of them has failed as yet.

Re: Padeyes $$$$$

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:12 am
I noticed one downside of the Harken padeye I mentioned: The eye part is too wide for the furler drum to be directly attached to it. You would need a skinner
padeye for that purpose, or some sort of intermediate shackle between the furler and the padeye.

BTW, I picked up my kit (and a bunch of Harken pieces and other hardware) in Annapolis last Tuesday, and I'm hard at work on the project.

Doug

Re: Padeyes $$$$$

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:28 pm
by TassiePete
Hi Doug,

A few passes with a file along the pad eye's loop and cleaning up with #1000 grit works well to get the drum to fit. You may not have enough space for another shackle between the bow-sprit and the masthead, because there's a chance you a will need a shackle to attach the luff wire to the top swivel (and possibly another between the swivel and the block).
I made really short soft-shackles from 4 mm Dyneema for that.

P.