Reading ahead to the rudder installation, eyebolts and a rod are used to good effect instead of gudgeons and pintle, but I have discovered a potential problem. The method for securing the eyebolts in the keel and in the rudder is to drill a hole slightly larger than 1/4" and slightly deeper than 3" and fill it with thickened epoxy, then drill a hole "slightly smaller than the threads" in the epoxy and force-thread the eyebolt in. As John states, the eyebolts are 3" long, and when force-threaded into thickened epoxy will be mechanically quite strong. This is true, but the problem I want to point out is that the last half of the shaft is coated with epoxy before the eyebolt is threaded the rest of the way in, essentially embedding the stainless steel shaft in epoxy.
Stainless steel, as you know, is the opposite of most metals in one respect: It corrodes due to lack of oxygen and should never be embedded in epoxy.
I would like to suggest two possible solutions for the engineers among us to mull over and weigh in on:
First drill 3/8" diameter holes in the keel and rudder, about 3 1/2" deep. Fill the holes with thickened epoxy and allow it to cure. Drill 13/16" diameter holes in the cured epoxy, 3 1/4" deep. Tap 1/4-20 threads in the epoxy. I'm assuming the eyebolt threads are 1/4-20--they might be 1/4-28, haven't checked--either way, tap the correct thread. The eyebolts can then be threaded into the tapped holes and should be mechanically strong, given the three-inch long shafts. There is no worry about the eyebolts loosening because the "pintle" will prevent them from turning. In fact, I would think they should not be threaded in all that tightly, just snugged, then backed off until they are horizontal.
An alternative might be to force-thread the eyebolts into the epoxy, as John suggests, but leave out the last step of adding fresh epoxy to the last half of the shafts. This might be stronger than tapping threads into the epoxy first, after all epoxy is not metal.
One caveat: It is very hard to drill the smaller hole into the epoxy and be sure that your drill has not hit wood somewhere along the 3 1/4" length. Sealing the last half of the eyebolt in epoxy makes this a non-issue (but it also makes a broken eyebolt much more difficult to replace). Perhaps the beginning holes should be 1/2" in diameter or even larger to make hitting wood less likely?
I look forward to reading what others who are more knowledgeable think of my ideas, or from those who might have better suggestions.