Jay,
That's a tough question making me remember back that far
![Embarrassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
I faintly recall the problem and went back in my blog to find the details. I have copied the information below. In my case I suspect it was a combination of some inaccurate cutting of the keel's timber supports and mostly the difficulty of finding well dried seasoned lumber that will not warp.
"I finished the keel assembly and was all set to get organized for pouring the lead when I noticed the keel was not straight from the centerboard back and curved left by almost an inch. Considering the entire hull is built around what should be a straight keel and keelson this was to say the least a little disappointing. I assumed that the keel blocking I had cut was not accurate and proceeded to cut it away from the keel sides. But there was still a curve. I then did some cutting at the butt joint of the keel sides and discovered that the vertical support for the butt joint was the culprit. I was now able to easily straighten the keel and block it with some lumber and clamps. I am now ready to replace the the keel blocking and crossing my fingers when the epoxy cures that the problem will be solved. A dry fit of the keelson now shows a nice straight keel so if my repair work is successful I can get back on schedule."
At the original post
http://pocketshipadventure.blogspot.com/2009/03/crooked-keel-and-whats-in-name.htmlJohn C. Harris has an interesting comment that the keel being out by an inch probably wouldn't affect the boat's performance.
P.S. I just read Bill's blog after posting this and read about the blocking needed at the tapered end when laying up the keel. I honestly don't remember if I used that blocking when clamping everything together; if it was in the manual I am sure I would have seen it since I read very, very carefully on my first boat build of any kind. If I did miss it, it seems probable that without the blocking you could easily introduce a warp on the keel.