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We'll be using Seadek for the cockpit. But for the cabin roof and anchor well we wanted s.th. more cost efficient and decided for KiwiGrip. One liter was more than enough for those areas. The application was straight forward, although the texture did not come out as nicely as I had hoped for.

Dietrich

Your last photo reminded me of something. On my boat, after a couple of seasons, the paint
just aft of the cam cleats (Interlux Brightsides) has gotten abraded away by the lines:



Fortunately the fiberglass cloth is doubled up on that area, but I wish there was something I could put there
to keep the lines from eventually sawing though the roof...

G’Day Doug, have you considered corner rub strakes to protect the paintwork. They are high polished chrome and screw to the deck, I’ve seen them on eBay called:

Rub Strake Stainless Steel Marine Rub Strakes Protection Deck Boat Accessory 457

Cheers mate
Terry

That's the sort of thing that would work, if they are available in a rather short length, and they can be bent to match the curve of the roof.

Hooky wrote:G’Day Doug, have you considered corner rub strakes to protect the paintwork. They are high polished chrome and screw to the deck, I’ve seen them on eBay called:

Rub Strake Stainless Steel Marine Rub Strakes Protection Deck Boat Accessory 457

Cheers mate
Terry

Thanks for pointing this out. I was considering a strip of clear protection foil for bicycle frames...

As usual we did not follow the order of the build proposed by the manual. We completed the upper hull but did not yet install the tabernacle, which will be removable. The bow of our boat was located below the attic and there was not enough head room. Time to turn the boat around outside the workshop. This gave us the opportunity to look at the the boat from some distance and take a few photos.

Next will be installation of the remaining hardware at the hull and continue work on spars and mast.

Dietrich

dbeck wrote:Thanks for pointing this out. I was considering a strip of clear protection foil for bicycle frames...

I discovered stainless steel "rub strakes" for sale. They are available in lengths as short as 6 inches - they might work well, if they can be bent to match the curve of the roof.
I'll also look into the bike frame protectors.

Hello Builders,

this week we finished the companionway and slide. There are three modifications.
- The drop boards are made of 8mm acrylic. The manual proposes 6mm thickness, but here only 5mm and 8mm seem to be available. We considered 5mm to thin and opted for 8mm.
- We mounted the hasp and staple upside down. My main concern with the original orientation is that my head will be in conflict with the piece hanging down from the slide.
- The endstop of the slide was implemented by a piece of 6mm plywood mounted onto the back of the slide, after the slide is inserted. The cleat at the front of the companionway opening serves as the actual stop. Taking the slide out for servicing just requires to loosen four screws.

Dietrich

In May and June we basically worked on tabernacle, mast and spars. As usual, things take more time than expected We mostly followed the manual quite closely.

We have chosen to build the tabernacle removable. The outside transition from cabin top to BH #2 received two extra layers of glass, and two pieces of 9mm of plywood have been glued to the inside of BH #2. The tabernacle itself has been strengthened by pieces of 6mm plywood glued to its sides. It is installed via five 8mm screws that are bolted through BH #2.

Another change has been the toerails at the cabin top. Actually, they have been converted to low profile handrails and fixed to the cabin top with marine sealant and 5mm wood screws the through roof from inside the cabin. It took some time to build but we believe this will be quite handy to attach fenders, straps from rain/sun cover, whatever ...

I am afraid we can't do much on the boat for the next two months due to other obligations.

During the last building sessions, we pretty much followed the manual. There are just two things we made differently.

First, we went for synthetic rigging. Shrouds and bobstay are 5mm dyneema. That size is way to much and has break load above 2 tons, but 5mm is easier to grab.
Second, we did not install two forward mooring chocks at the dorade boxes. Instead, we installed just one bigger clamp bolted through the bowsprit. The holes in the bowsprit have inserts with G10 tubes.

I should also mention that we switched from one-part to two-part varnish. Its now applied to the handrails on the cabin top, tiller with its extension, mast and spars.